T minus 6 and Counting....

It's been quiet for the past several weeks. Folks have been busily making final preperations and it seems that we're all ready to go. Flights leave next Thurs night for the 1st tour and we'll arrive in Greenland Friday afternoon. It's a long flight - JFK to Iceland, 8 hours waiting for a plane back to Greenland and another 2-3 hours by boat to Narsaq. But already we're planning on the first hike up the Taseq Slope - with several folks planning on camping out that night.

(Photo above shows the arrival in Greenland and preparing for the boat ride to Narsaq)

I've been exercising (really just hiking up and down my mountain) and hope to be well prepared for the rigors to follow. We seem as prepared as we can get in Greenland; we've even hauled a big ol' circus tent up to one locale so we can stay up there for extended periods if we wish. I'll be in Greenland for a month - and have great expectations. I don't expect to post much as we'll be quite busy in the field - but we'll see. Perhaps this year I'll also visit Ivigtut and Igaliko (2 other famous complexes) as I have some time in between the two tours.

Onward to GL08

Packing List

Having made this trip a few more times than I care to remember I think I have the basic necessities down. But new folks might be curious about what I normally bring; it might help them remember some items not immediately obvious, or perhaps leave something behind that’s not really needed.

So – here goes (for a ten-day tour): (Remember, this is what *I* bring usually. It does not mean you have to bring everything I list, or can’t bring something that I don’t list)

Clothes
Generally I find that I don’t sweat much in spite of the activity. We’re not working in mud or pushing our way thru forests, so your clothing can last for a couple of days. We usually get a daily shower and most folks seem to retain a certain amount of civilization (some would argue that point about me).
· Pants, loose fitting – 4 pairs, cargo style pants a plus (lots of pockets)
· Shirts, long sleeve – 4
· Shirts, short sleeve – 4
· Socks, thick and warm – 10 (alternative – sock liners with just a couple pairs of heavy socks, but blisters may be a concern)
· Underwear – per your choice; we can do quick loads of laundry at Peter’s
· Gloves, 1 pr – two if you’re gonna lose them, can be bought locally
· Hat, w/ mosquito net (you can buy this in Greenland if you wish)
· Fleece jacket
· Windbreaker/Rain jacket (remember layers)
· Rain pants if you really want to be dry (I don’t use them, but some do) (rain gear should be light and cheap throw away type items like the vinyl quickies; good for ten days)
· Hiking boots – broken in and comfortable, steel toe if can…
· Bathrobe/pajamas/ etc for common areas
· Thermal underwear (if you plan on a lot of camping – optional, I seldom use)

Sundries & Misc.
· 100% DEET – small bottle
· Shaving stuff (I don’t shave until Herb and Howie force me)
· Wipes/Field TP
· Soap/shampoo (the hotel won’t supply any – but you can buy locally)
· Medicines, band-aids, Excedrin/Motrin/Tylenol (no USA medicines in GL)
· Prescription medicines – make sure you have fresh refills
· Sunglasses
· Batteries (“AA”, “AAA”)
· Tools (pliers, knife, etc – all in one)
· Tape for packing
· Plastic shrink wrap on a roll for rock wrapping (bubble pack available locally for a fee)
· Tape (adhesive for gauze, for rock tagging)
· Sharpie for writing
· Reading material (off hours assuming there will be some) or other down-time activity things

Equipment
· Backpack
· Hammer
· Chisels (2)
· UV tent (BBQ grill cover)
· Tent and accessories
· Sleeping bag (synthetic, not down)
· Water bottle/camel pack

UV Prospecting
· UV Light with spare bulb
· Battery packs
· Battery charger w/ 220v adaptor
· Fluorescent marker tape
· UV/Safety glasses

Food
The hotel has cooking facilities and we can buy food locally. Snacks (USA style) are good to bring as the stores don’t seem to carry much of that….
· Dry mix Gatorade
· Peanut butter
· Energy bars/Crackers packs
· Packaged tuna
· Ramen noodle soup
· MREs (Heater Meals – self heating, just add water)
· Oatmeal (packets, instant)

High Tech Gear
· Flashlight/Headlamp – LED headlamps are great
· GPS
· GMRS Walkie Talkie (I use a combined unit – GPS/GMRS, Garmin Rino)
· Laser (J)
· UV LED flashlight for LW
· Camera – small and light good
· Alarm clock if you need one – but really not needed. You will learn to hate me as I pound on doors.

Things I see no purpose in bringing, but I have seen people bring (but that’s just me)
· Laptop (take a break – relax, let your hair down!) You can use Peter’s ‘puter to send/receive email.
· Cell phone - (You don’t want a cell phone. First, odds are poor it will work either in town or (especially) in the hills, even if a spiffy ‘tri-band’ model with international roaming. Second, if it did work, it might ring. And that wouldn’t be good. Finally, you will be looking for things to dump from pockets rather than add. But you can always bring it and see for yourself)
· Knee pads (useless)
· Stools to sit on while searching rocks (roflmao)
· Walking sticks (IMHO dangerous)
· Stove – fuel available in Narsaq (but more a hassle than anything else IMHO)

This is a start. Perhaps other folks can chime in and add/subtract from the list’ then I’ll put it on the blog for future reference. Remember – you’re only in Greenland for 10 days and you have a lot to bring just to support your prospecting activities. Towards the end we’re all running out of clean clothes and getting quite raunchy – but we’ve got kilos of rocks! Try to reserve a clean set of clothes for the return trip – the people on the plane will appreciate it.

LiFE Battery Packs

LiFE Battery Packs

With an exceptional “power to weight” ratio, durability, and safe operation, LiFE Battery Packsare the next generation battery for handheld portable UV lamps. Using patented lithium-ion chemistry (based on new nanoscale material developed at MIT), these packs provide high performance and abuse-tolerance unmatched by any other battery technology.

Power
· 13.2vdc – extra power, increased light, less weight. Lightweight, small battery packs - 2.3AH or 4.6AH. (higher amperages can be had)
· Maximum power to end of charge, no degradation in lamp output.
· Ultra fast charge –less than 5 minutes to charge to 90% capacity, full charge in less than one hour. No more waiting overnight for a charge.
· Thousands of recharge cycles when used at low-discharge rates, unmatched by any other battery technology.
More volts, longer, than other batteries - UV lamps powered by 12vdc batteries are capable of operating at 14vdc (the output of a charging car battery) and shine brightest at the higher voltage. A constant 13.2v instead of a slowly dropping 12v provides more light output, and brighter finds! Lightweight means you can carry more rocks!

Safety
· Inherently safer chemistry
· Superior abuse tolerance
Safer technology than NiMH, NiCD or even SLA - Nanophosphate™ technology is designed to be highly abuse-tolerant while meeting the most demanding requirements of power, energy, operating temperature range, cycle life and shelf life. Multiple layers of protection are employed at the chemistry, cell and pack level to achieve an energy storage solution with superior safety and abuse tolerance. (As with all batteries, charging should not be done unattended)

Life
· 10+ year projected shelf life, will not self discharge
· Industry leading cycle life – thousands of charge cycles
· Environmentally friendly chemistry
Long life – in the field and on the shelf - Rechargeable lead-acid (SLA), NiCD, and NiMH batteries will “self-discharge” when sitting on the shelf. Some (such as lead-acid) can be damaged by long-term storage and rendered unusable. UV-PowerPaks will last years without use, and can be recharged thousands of times.

Battery Pack Specifications
2 hour Battery - A small exceptionally light pack with over 2 hours of power – rechargeable in 15 minutes. Lightweight - can easily be carried in a pocket. Two packs will provide an evening of lamping without even being aware that you’re carrying a battery – or use just one pack; it can be recharged in under ½ hour using your car/truck battery.
· Power: 2.3AH (amp hours) at 13.2vdc. Will power the average lamp for over two hours, longer with intermittent “lamp on” time. High constant voltage output insures maximum lamp brightness.
· Weight and Size: 12 ozs, 4 ½” x 2 ½” x 1” (a little bigger than a pack of cigarettes)
· Charge time (from a full discharge state): Under 45 minutes for a full charge
· Connectors: High current, high reliability Anderson Power Pole with locking connector (cigarette lighter connector adapter available). Auxiliary balancing connector assures full balanced charge of each cell.

4 hour Battery - For those who need more power, longer, the 4 hour pack is essentially two “2 hour” packs wired together. Over 4 hours from one lightweight pack.
· Power: 4.6AH (amp hours) at 13.2vdc. Will power the average lamp for over four hours, longer with intermittent “lamp on” time. High constant voltage output insures maximum lamp brightness.
· Weight and Size: 1 Lb, 7 ozs, 4 ½” x 2 ½” x 2”
· Charge time (from a full discharge state): Under 1 hour for a full charge
· Connectors: High current, high reliability Anderson Power Pole with locking connector (cigarette lighter connector adapter available). Auxiliary balancing connector assures full charge of each cell. (Inquire for SuperBright II connector).

Required Charger: For both batteries - Hyperion EOS 5i (available separately) – Universal AC power (110v to 240v)/DC powered (12vdc car battery), quick charge, LCD status display, automatic cell balancing. Can also charge other types of batteries such as lead-acid, NiCD, and NiMH.

Optional Cigarette Lighter Connector – Adapts new battery pack connectors to lamps using old-style connectors. If possible we recommend replacing your old connector with the new style powerpole connectors.

HYPERION EOS 5I DP Charger
The EOS 5i DP AC/DC is a versatile, easy-to-use charger with special features for fast charging of 2.3AH and 4.6AH LiFE battery packs – at home or in the field! It can also be used to charge many other types of battery packs. AC/DC operation allows charging directly from AC wall supply while at home OR from a 12V DC battery while at the field. LBA10Cell Balancer (included) insures proper cell balancing and long life.(This charger is required to charge UV-PowerPak batteries – do not attempt to charge with any other charger.)

Specifications:
· Two INPUT power choices, power from home AC, or car battery
o Use AC 100~240V at home
o DC 11~15V anywhere
· 2 Line LCD for charge monitor and post data display
· Charge/Discharge (useful for cell balancing)
· 1-14 cell NiCd/NiMH Batteries
· 2-12v Lead Acid Batteries
· 1-5 cell Lithium Ion or Lithium Polymer Batteries
· Cell balancing - LBA10 included
· 0.1-5A Charge Current
· Audible Function Alarm
· Output Charge Cord/Connector set included ($4.00+ value)
· Double-length Input cord for convenience

Why LiFE?
· Light weight!
· Higher voltage, more lamp watts
· Constant power to the end of the charge
· Quick recharge (10 - 30 minutes)
· Reliable – thousands of charge cycles
Sealed lead acid batteries are fine if you’re starting a car. But they have inherent problems, as do other technologies. Over time an SLA battery will simply go dead. These types of batteries are not made for deep discharge, or for sitting on a shelf over the long winter months. Life expectancy can be as little as 200 charge cycles – at best 500 cycles. And the worst thing about it is that you probably won’t even know until your light finally just won’t light (or the battery boils over during charging). NiMH and NiCD are a little better, but come with their own set of problems. And they all take 8 to 10 hours to recharge!

This chart compares the brightness (actual watts, over 8 hour time period) of an 11 watt lamp powered by a 7 pound, 8AH lead-acid battery to a lamp powered by a set of two 4.6AH (9.2AH total) UV-PowerPak batteries (total weight of less than 3 lbs).

What is Cell Balancing?

12V battery packs are made by “stringing together” lower voltage individual batteries. A typical individual battery cell generates around two volts (on average). If you wire 6 of these cells in series you will get 12vdc (lead-acid for example). Some cells may generate only 1.2v, thus 10 cells are needed to get 12vdc (NiMH). Others may generate slightly more voltage, but the principal remains the same. Simply wire in series the number of batteries needed to get 12vdc.
Because of production tolerances, uneven temperature distribution and differences in the ageing characteristics of particular cells it is possible that individual cells in a series chain could become overstressed leading to premature failure of the cell. During the charging cycle, if there is a degraded cell in the chain with a diminished capacity, there is a danger that once it has reached its full charge it will be subject to overcharging until the rest of the cells in the chain reach their full charge. The result is temperature and pressure build up and possible damage to the cell. During discharging, it is even possible for the voltage on the weaker cells to be reversed as they become fully discharged before the rest of the cells resulting in (permanent) failure of the cell.
Because Lead acid and NiMH cells can withstand a level of over-voltage without sustaining permanent damage, a degree of cell balancing or charge equalization can occur naturally with these technologies simply by prolonging the charging time since the fully charged cells will release energy by gassing (getting hot) until the weaker cells reach their full charge. Usually this is not harmful to these cells unless the imbalance is severe – then heat can permanently damage a cell, or worse – cause a fire. Although the problem is reduced with Lead acid, NiMH batteries and some other cell chemistries, it is not completely eliminated and solutions should be used for most multicell applications. Heat is a battery's enemy so we must do everything to limit this heat, but insure maximum charge.

Lithium cells cannot tolerate over-charging. The cells in the UV-PowerPaks are Lithium Ion and thus need some kind of balancing to prevent this from happening. This is taken care of automatically during the charge process by the Hyperion Charger and LBA10 Cell Balancer. At the end of a charge each cell in the battery pack will be charged to its optimum voltage, ready for an evening’s use.

A side benefit to this balancing procedure is MAXIMUM POWER (all cells are fully charged, doing their job) and longer life from your battery pack – both in charge times, and in simple longevity. A lead-acid battery with a discharged cell - at a minimum - will provide less runtime, and can risk cell reversal and ultimate failure of the entire battery. NiMH packs can heat up to a point where they might even catch fire if not protected by an over temperature sensor during charging. Intelligent charging and safe battery technology solves this problem and is recommended for all multi-cell applications – and is required for UV-PowerPak Lithium Battery Packs.

Batteries Rehashed

There's been a lot of questions and individual emails discussing batteries and lamps. I took the best of them and just threw them together here for reference. Maybe someday I'll get some time to do a proper writeup - but for now, here's the info. I'll also post a paper I did on LiFE batteries just for general knowledge.

NiMH battery packs

Jim sent an email a few weeks ago about batteries and packs and cables and stuff. I am condensing it here to make sure everyone gets it....

There are a couple of varieties of battery packs available. A 10AH battery will last twice as long as a 5AH battery, but is twice as heavy. The choice is yours....
Fanny Pack Battery: 12V 10Ah (120 Wh) NiMH in Belt Bag + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Lighting $139.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357 - Fanny pack, your choice

Belt Bag Power Kit : NiMH 12V 10Ah (120Wh, Dx10 Hump) + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $154.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2990 - Belt pack, your choice

Belt Bag Power Pack: 12V 5 Ah (60 Wh) NiMH (Hump) Battery + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $89.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3044 - smaller capacity, but lighter

For WTC owners one (or two or three) of the above is all you need. The lamp will plug directly into the pack with the cigarette lighter connector. I recommend at least two battery packs, and only one charger. Use one in the field while the other is in the hotel charging. I like the 5AH batteries - they are lighter; but you might consider 3 packs in that case just to be sure you have enough power.

For Superbright owners:

You will need the B215 cord from UV systems that allows your superbright to be plugged into a cigarette jack. Then the above batteries can power the Superbright.
B215 Auxiliary fifteen foot cord to operate your SuperBright II from your cars cigarette lighter jack. $29.95 (keep in mind this is a 15 ft straight cored instead of the 6 ft coiled cord found on the battery pack)

http://www.uvsystems.com/checkout/agora.cgi?p_id=3_5&xm=on


UV Systems offers a car lighter cord - that solves everyone's problems when hooking up to 3rd party batteries. All they have to do is buy that and one of the battery kits you suggested. I agree wholeheartedly with your analysis of the cigarette lighter connector - but that's what everyone uses. I use a different connector on my lamps - be sure to take a look at it this summer; it may work for you...

13.2V NiMH should not be a problem. They rarely get up to 16v, and if they do it will only be for a short time - rapidly settling in at 13.2v. Car batteries (lead/acid) are similar - they charge at 15v +/- and will initially put out around 14v or more for the first few minutes... When charging the car can put out 15+ volts so the lamps must be capable of handling that voltage...

So - sounds like the SBII cable problem is resolved - everyone get it?

5AH vs 10AH - more battery power (AH) is always good. The tradeoff is weight. A personal decision... But remember, two is better than one...


Here is a quick and dirty solution to convert your SuperBright to NiMH.

First choose one of these battery kits. The have the NiMH batteries in a belt bag or fanny pack with a cigarette style connector. They also include an appropriate universal charger.
Fanny Pack Battery: 12V 10Ah (120 Wh) NiMH in Belt Bag + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Lighting $139.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357

Belt Bag Power Kit : NiMH 12V 10Ah (120Wh, Dx10 Hump) + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $154.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2990

Belt Bag Power Pack: 12V 5 Ah (60 Wh) NiMH (Hump) Battery + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $89.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3044

5Ah vs 10Ah
The Superbright draws 1.53A so the 5AH pack will last approximately 3 hours and the 10AH pack approximately 6 hours.
For guys like Mark and Howie that know where the rocks are and what they look like the 5AH pack is probably enough. For the rest of us that need to lamp dozens of square meters of ground to find the rocks the 10AH pack might be a better choice. Taking two 5AH packs up the mountain might be an advantage since when one dies you know you are exactly half way thru your power.

12V vs 13.2V
Don't exceed 12V without consulting the lamp manufacturer! The 13.2V battery pack when freshly charged will be putting out 16V. This may be to much for your lamp. The second step is to buy the B215 cord from UV systems that allows your supper bright to be plugged into a cigarette jack.
B215 Auxiliary fifteen foot cord to operate your SuperBright II from your cars cigarette lighter jack. $29.95 (keep in mind this is a 15 ft straight cored instead of the 6 ft coiled cord found on the battery pack)

http://www.uvsystems.com/checkout/agora.cgi?p_id=3_5&xm=on
I used the above system in Greenland in 2006. The Superbright and the batteries performed great but the cigarette jacks SUCKED ASS! They are always pulling out and make intermittent contact. I sort of solved this problem by using some rubber bands to hold them in. The other problems is the wires spin around inside the connector and then short out or break off. This happened to me but fortunately I brought two battery packs so I had a backup.

What I ended up doing when I got home is replacing all of the cigarette style connectors with 4-pin microphone jacks from Radio Shack. These can be screwed together to prevent them from pulling out.
4-Pin Panel Mount Microphone Audio Jack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103996&cp=2032058.2032231.2032280&pg=6&parentPage=family

4-Pin Female CB and HAM Radio Microphone Plug
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103255&cp=2032058.2032231.2032280&pg=11&parentPage=family
The female connector goes on the battery side so there are no exposed pins with power on them to short out. The male connector goes to the lamp side. This is a panel mount device so you will need to use some heat shrink to seal up the back.

The other end of the cord goes to the connecter on the superbright

This is what it says on my Superbright II Connector:
Outer section says: Amphenol C16-1
Inner section says 3109
These are the pinouts for this connector that Don prints on the side of the superbright.
12VDC 1.53A
1 & 2 = +
3 & GND = -

The 4 pin microphone connecters are infinitely better than the cigarette jacks but they are still not perfect. The one problem I have found is if you insert them wrong you can get them in far enough to make contact which will blow the fuse. My solution is to be careful and carry extra fuses. I eventually want to get some mil spec connectors but have not had time to search.


Lamps and Batteries
I used the NiMH batteries last time and was very pleased with them. The new Lithium Ion batteries look very interesting. I send Mark a bunch of technical questions on those. My only electrical problem was with the cigarette style connectors on my battery packs. These SUCK! Here are the problems:
Wires break off inside. If you use these cigarette style connectors make sure you tape the wires so there is no movement of the wires going to the connectors. Otherwise the wires break off at the soldered connections.
Connectors do not make good contact. I was always fiddling around with he connectors trying to get them to make contact. I ended up using a rubber band to always keep pressure on the connector The connectors keep pulling out if you catch the wire on anything Cigarette connectors have high resistance. After using the light for a while the connector would get noticeably warm. This indicated you were dissipating power in the contact resistance. This is power that is not making it to your lights.
I ended up replacing all my cigarette style connectors with some 4 terminal microphone connectors from radio shack. These screw together and solved all the above problems.


Question comes up about lamps.....

There are two primary manufacturers of lamps (IMHO) - Way Too Cool and UV Systems. Each has advantages/disadvantages...

Way Too Cool - multiple wave lengths in one unit, bright, cheap - not very rugged
UV Systems - rugged, quite expensive IMHO

Having experienced both of these in the rugged environment of Greenland I've found the UV Systems SuperBright to hold up best. But neither will garner my endorsement (in the lingo of the times). Both have their problems, although the SuperBright reportedly has fixed the problem with the connector, and perhaps the Way Too Cool units are being built sturdier.

The SuperBright has been the industry standard for years. It is rugged but requires a damn lead acid battery :-( (as do all the other lamps). But you can reduce battery weight by going with NiMH or Poly-Ion.

Personally I'm so fed up with field lights that I build my own. This year I have what I believe will be the best of the best - we'll see. 26 watts in a light, sturdy handheld lamp.... I really only build these because I love tinkering, and have time on my hands.

I'd be interested in other opinions from the folks on this list. I know they all have at least one of the two mentioned above. FWIW - Howie and Don are gambling on my light this year.... (they both finally put their superbrights out to pasture).

You *will* see a constant theme in my responses to equipment, etc. Don't scrimp! Buy the best you can buy. You're going a very long way, to find the rarest rocks on earth, and will probably only do it once. Now is not the time to save pennies.

I have an electronics background, and will be happy to try and fix anything that breaks in the field. But I need to know what lights people are bringing so I can bring parts to repair them.


So, if I get:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357This one is 10AH - heavier than I like - but if you're happy with it, it's certainly ok. It's the complete package, case, charger and one battery pack and http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4096] These are the individual battery packs.

FWIW - I prefer these: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2387 - they're only 5AH, but lighter and cheaper. The charger is different, and the connection is also different. I sent an email previously describing all this. But what you have picked will certainly work, and it's a complete package - nothing else to buy (except for the Europe power adaptor)

I will be able to:
1) have 1 pack with me and 1 charging - both handling long hours of use10AH on each pack - will give you about 8 to 10 hours on your lamp, plenty
2) AC wall charging (assuming I bring an appropriate AC adapter for Greenland power)The charger is universal meaning it will operate on 220v, but you will need the special adaptor for plugging into European plugs.
3) Much lighter batter than my lead acid battery I have nowDunno - how much does your battery weigh now? This new battery weighs 3.6 LBS. If you have a 7/8AH lead acid ti probably wieghs 6 to 7 LBS

Subject: RE: NiMH battery packs

Sorry - forgot to answer that. "Dx10" means 10 each "D" cells. "Hump" is the way they are packaged. "D" refers to the size of the battery - i.e. - D, C, AA, AAA. That pack is comprised of ten D cells, in a "hump" configuration (don't know why they call it hump) - I guess it's how they stack the cell together.

NiMH cells are 1.2v each (as opposed to 1.5v for alkaline cells - Eveready type batteries for your flashlight). It takes ten of them to make 12 volts....

The best sized NiMH battery packs I've seen are those made with ten "C" cells, 5AH (at least I think they are C cells - or maybe a longer version of a C cell)

Batteries are spec'd in terms of [amp hours] or sometimes [watt hours]. It all refers to the amount of power a battery can supply. A 10AH (amp hour) battery at 12 volts will supply 120 watt hours of power until it is discharged (used up).

All we really need to be concerned with is the amp hours. If you have a lamp that uses (draws) 1 amp, and you have a 10AH battery, your light will work for about ten hours. This is not too far off for the WTC lights - they draw around 0.75A to 1.25A depending on how many lights you have on, how cold it is, and the phase of the moon. Figure that you need to feed it 1 amp - makes for easy calculations.....

I recommend multiple batteries, lower weight. Commonly folks use 5AH batteries (powers your lamp for 4 to 5 hours). They will carry two of these in the field, and perhaps have one or two charging back at the hotel for the next day. They take up to 8 hours to charge, so 3 would work fine assuming you don't lamp for more than 8 to 10 hours per day. One charges while you are in the field, the other can be charged overnight - and you'll have two fresh batteries for the next day.

Regarding use of your lamp: the "on time" will be much less than the time you spend in the field. You will only turn your lamp on when you are examining rocks under your tent - probably 15 minutes out of every hour at best. Plus you have travel time to get to/from the sites, so you will find you will probably use your lamp no more than 2 to 3 hours per day. If we go out at night it will get more extensive use....

Someone else chime in???? Maybe explain it better?

Star Wars Comes to Greenland

I'm always trying something new on our yearly tours. This year I have a couple of things, but one that I'm most excited about is my UV laser. Although not specifically tour related it might be an interesting read for technology minded folks.

Blu-Ray DVDs are the latest rage. They store much more data than ordinary DVDs/CDs and this is a result of the laser diode used to read/write the data. Other types of DVD burners use red or IR Laser Diodes, but Blu-Ray uses a violet laser diode (405nm peak). This is almost LW UV. The shorter wavelength allows a smaller dot, and higher density writing on the DVD.

Greenland minerals are highly reactive to even blue light - so I figured that a violet LD would be very interesting. These diodes are not available "off-the-shelf" for under $2,000.00 as the entire supply is eaten up by Sony and others.... So - as an experiment I bought the optical assembly for a Playstation 3 (spare part) and ripped the Blu-Ray laser diode out of it. This diode puts out about 10mw to 20mw of power; enough to make a very dangerous laser. I built my own electronic driver and installed everything into a case which previously housed a small red laser (And 15 LEDs - more on that later). Result - success! Amazing success....

With even this low power laser I could light up sodalite, tugtupite, calcite, fluorite, wernerite, all the uranium minerals, even Franklin calcite! The daytime glow was amazing. The theory is that I can use my laser while hiking to our favorite spots to see if any glow minerals are lurking in the shadows on our way. Without the laser I would have to unpack my gear, set up my light, get under a grill cover just to find out that nothing glows....

Given my success with the low-power diode, I decided to build a "death-ray" - 100mw of power.


It's the size of a small penlight flashlight, with a high-power laser diode, and 10 375nm UV LEDs filtered by Hoya glass. A single switch controls the laser or LEDs, and the unit is powered by one of my standard UV lamp batteries (small shirt pocket size). With the LW LEDs I can light up larger areas of longwave rocks for closer inspection without using the laser (and risking eye damage).

This diode was ripped from the latest and greatest DVD writer/burner from LG Electronics (GGW-H20L). This writer is a high-speed 6X writer, and the diode will run at 105mw - enough to burn! Following the same procedure I used to build the low-power model I ended up with a laser which will 1.) Light matches, 2.) Burn paper, 3.) Make rocks go crazy.

I set the output to about 85mw to conserve on battery, heat, and have a longer laser life. I then proceeded to run a few tests. This laser makes every longwave mineral glow like a banshee (as you would expect) but also makes some others glow that I did not expect. You can actually write your name in Franklin calcite with the "flash" typical of that calcite. I experimented with it outside and found that even under bright noontime sun minerals will exhibit a bright glow. In the dusk/nighttime hours I can easily light up rocks 250' away!!!

The pic above shows the beam in a dark room shot thru smoke. It's pretty much invisible until it hits something that is fluorescent.

Above is a piece of Greenland sodalite (against a white background paper). The laser penetrates the mineral and causes it to glow from within.

Wenerite - bright yellow fluorescence emanating from the small dot created by the laser

Argonite crystals - the laser digs into the specimen and caused it to glow from within...

The real test is how it works in daylight. The pics above were taken around noontime (bright sun). The one on the left shows an area of sodalite fluorescing under the beam. On the right the beam is focused on a non-fluorescent area of the mineral. In the pic the non-fluorescent area shows up as a violet bright spot, but this is due to the camera's sensitivity to the light. Your eye barely discerns a small dot. But the area of sodalite glows a bright orange - unmistakeably a fluorescent mineral!

So - I have a small powerful "UV light" which I can carry in my shirt pocket and pull out at a moment's notice. If I detect glow rocks then I can decide if I want to pull out my SW UV light and do some serious exploring. I have great expectations...

One cautionary note: These things are dangerous! Deadly! The light is very faint but make no mistake; as my pics shows, the beam is powerful and can easily blind a person - probably in milliseconds. Reflections from sharp crystal faces can do damage. It is not a toy.

Hammers, Chisels other Instruments of Destruction, More on Gear...

(Photo courtesy Herb Y.)
We've had a few emails discussing additional gear, hammers, and such....

Fly Vest - A great general purpose "pocket" vest allows you to carry cameras, batteries, small rocks, and other often needed items while hiking in a quickly accesable pocket. Bigger pockets are great for carrying battery packs. For this year I am considering a photographer's vest. It has less pockets (but bigger) than a fishing vest (I really don't plan on carrying dozens of lures, flys, hooks, etc) and seems somewhat sturdier. I carry my battery packs in this vest instead of on a belt so the vest has to be sturdy. Pants (cargo?) with pockets are handy also - by the time you get to the top of the mountain you'll have little rocks stashed everywhere - wondering if they glow....

Safety glasses - probably a very good idea, I wear glasses and find that they protect me well. You'll be hammering a lot of big rocks, with chips flying everywhere, plus - under your UV viewing tent the UV light can burn your eyes quickly.


Water bottle - I find that the Camelpaks work really well; very handy for drinking on the way up. But you'll still carry extra bottles of water most likely; they can be purchased at the local stores. You will need plenty of hydration. I usually refill my water from the snow-melt when in the mountains.


Hammers and Chisels - I buy all my hammers at Home Depot (and chisels). I find that fiberglass handles are the best; they are strong, but absorb the blows much better than metal handles. Wood is also fine. I would bring at least a 3 LB hammer, up to 6 LB with a 12" to 16" handle. You will be breaking big rocks and need something with some weight (but remember, you have to carry it up the mountain). We intend to have some big sledge hammers placed at a couple of strategic spots for those heavy duty boulder busting jobs. The photo shows my favorite hammer; it has a hammering face, and a chiseled face. Using two hammers (one to hit this one while holding it in place) can be very effective in busting boulders without busting your hands. The chiseled edge directs the blows onto the rock so that you will hopefully get a break in the direction you wish (not simple with Greenland rocks).


Chisels - absolutely get the kind with the hand guard - two each would be best. These are "throw aways" as they will not last the trip; the hills are filled with broken chisels. A nice 1" to 2" blade works best. (IMHO).

Chisels are used to wedge open cracks in large "in-place" rock, pry off big chunks, and for trimming. They don't last long! Sometimes they're just left in place after you've gotten them so wedged in that you can't retrieve them.


I don't like the Estwing type hammers (right). The bigger ones (crack hammers) are all metal and hard on my wrist/lower arm. The smaller geologist types are pretty much useless (but they make good chisels with a handle - for about three blows). The rocks we will encounter are big, ugly and damn hard. A little hammer is useless.

Got my Backpack "System" this weekend

After 7 years of hiking up the slopes, over the mountains, and swinging backpacks in/out of boats I've gotten a pretty good idea of what will work for me in the area of "personal portage". I've tried many systems, and have high hopes that this year I'll finally get it right.

For the past couple of years I've had a very large pack but it's finally worn out (amazing what carrying 20 kilos of rocks in a backpack can do !). This year I opted for a smaller pack, but much sturdier - along with a 2nd "side pack" for light, batteries and UV tent. I figure there are a couple of advantages to this: the smaller backpack will keep weight off my back, less bumping while walking, and is much sturdier than previous packs I've owned. The smaller side pack will work well as a "carrier" when working a prospect (hammer, chisel, light, battery, etc) - I can just leave the big pack and wander around with the smaller pack. Plus - keeping the necessary items close at hand on the way up will allow me access to quickly needed items without having to take off the big pack and search for stuff. This should be really handy as you are always tempted to stop at many spots "on the way" to check out a rock that just looks like it should glow.

These packs are from Maxpedition. "MAXPEDITION Hard-Use Nylon Gear is designed and constructed to withstand extreme conditions; in other words, we expect you to USE IT HARD in demanding situations and environments. Our company originated as a builder of premium-grade military equipment...". I think they're right. The material is very strong nylon, with a doubly strong bottom (the floor of your pack takes the biggest beating from the rocks inside, as well as abuse from dragging). It's filled with rows of strap holders (molle system) so you can customize it with all kinds of accessories (additional pockets, holders, etc). It also provides for a hydration system to carry a 100oz Camelbak.

The smaller side/front carry pack has room for batteries, my UV tent, chisel, GPS, camera, and I can clip my light to it. Thus I have everything I need on the way up right at my fingertips; I don't have to rummage in the big backpack everytime I want to check out a spot.

I like the smaller size and distribution. You don't really need that much space unless you're gonna be carrying lots of camping gear. And too much space tempts you to carry too many rocks - a serious problem in Ilimaussaq. I do have to solve one problem - there's really no straps for carrying my sleeping bag, but with the modular approach I can add straps and mount my bag to the bottom. All my other camping gear will fit nicely inside the main enclosure.

I also decided to try out a "Rollypoly" dump pouch. This is an expanding pouch which attached to your webbing, or mounts on a belt. It's nice and compact when rolled up, and expands into a big carrying bag unfolded.

Not sure how well this will work - a big load of rocks might not carry too well, but it might be nice for carrying equipment around from spot to spot - we'll see.

So - I'm now ready to pack my gear, adjust my straps, and get some experience with my new setup. I plan on hiking up and down my hill here in TN everyday for the next few months - fully loaded. My driveway is about the same as hiking the Taseq Slope; the rocks just aren't as interesting. But it will get me in great shape and allow me to figure out the best way to pack and carry for prospecting in Greenland.

Onward to GL08!

Romancing the Stone

Happy Valentines Day!

“For ages, the Inuit of Greenland have understood the power of tugtupite. Legend has it that lovers can cause the stone to glow fiery red just from the heat of their romance. The brilliance and vibrant colors announce the intensity of their love.”

Perhaps the most famous mineral found in Greenland is tugtupite - and is certainly the main quest of those who travel to this remote area. Local villagers spend much of their free time in pursuit of this stone and many legends have risen around tugtupite.

In metaphysical & spiritual healing loreTugtupite (also known as the reindeer stone) is an emotional stone. It can protect one from negative energy of many kinds by wearing or carrying the stone, and is often sought for this shielding property. It is also helpful for removing energy blockages, and to clear the aura. Tugtupite is reputed to strengthen romantic relationships, and expand the love and sexual experience, and cure depressions. Physically tugtupite is used in general healing, purifying blood, to stimulate hormone production, and increase fertility. Tugtupite opens and clears the heart chakra, and will also activate and integrate all the chakras.

Inuit legend attributes tugtupite to “Tutu” - the reindeer girl. Tutu went to the mountains to give birth to her first child and during birth the miraculous life-giving bloods seeped into the mountain stones and created tugtupite. Thus it is known for life, romance and fertility....

(A painting done by a local artist, hanging in the lobby of the Narsaq Hospital, showing Tutu in the moutains giving birth)

What is tugtupite?


Tugtupite is one of the world’s few deep red gemstones, often translucent, and always brightly fluorescent. Often referred to as the "king of fluorescent minerals", it is known worldwide for its beauty under ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV light (or sunlight) the color deepens, sometimes to an almost grape color (a tenebrescent property). This color change can last for weeks, and is easily restored simply by exposure to sunlight.


Gem quality tugtupite is among the rarest of gemstones, only found in remote areas of Greenland - and always in small quantities. In high demand by collectors, the finest specimens are almost always reserved for jewelry. Tugtupite is only found in three areas in the world - Greenland, MSH, Canada, and Kola, Russia. It was first discovered in Greenland in 1957 (by European geologists - the Innuit had known about it for hundreds of years). The mines are located high in the mountains surrounding the fjords in an area known as the Ilimaussaq Complex - a unique geological formation approximately 8km x 20km in area. Greenland is the only supplier of gem quality tugtupite and is the only area where sufficient quantities can be found to supply the gem market with enough material to make this a marketable gemstone. Access to the mines is only by foot (and boat), and the rough material must be carried down the mountain by backpack. (There are no roads in Greenland even interconnecting cities, much less to the remote mountain areas.) The difficulty in finding gem quality specimens, mining them, and then porting them out of the mountains only adds to the value of this extremely unique, rare and beautiful gem.