Having made this trip a few more times than I care to remember I think I have the basic necessities down. But new folks might be curious about what I normally bring; it might help them remember some items not immediately obvious, or perhaps leave something behind that’s not really needed.
So – here goes (for a ten-day tour): (Remember, this is what *I* bring usually. It does not mean you have to bring everything I list, or can’t bring something that I don’t list)
Clothes
Generally I find that I don’t sweat much in spite of the activity. We’re not working in mud or pushing our way thru forests, so your clothing can last for a couple of days. We usually get a daily shower and most folks seem to retain a certain amount of civilization (some would argue that point about me).
· Pants, loose fitting – 4 pairs, cargo style pants a plus (lots of pockets)
· Shirts, long sleeve – 4
· Shirts, short sleeve – 4
· Socks, thick and warm – 10 (alternative – sock liners with just a couple pairs of heavy socks, but blisters may be a concern)
· Underwear – per your choice; we can do quick loads of laundry at Peter’s
· Gloves, 1 pr – two if you’re gonna lose them, can be bought locally
· Hat, w/ mosquito net (you can buy this in Greenland if you wish)
· Fleece jacket
· Windbreaker/Rain jacket (remember layers)
· Rain pants if you really want to be dry (I don’t use them, but some do) (rain gear should be light and cheap throw away type items like the vinyl quickies; good for ten days)
· Hiking boots – broken in and comfortable, steel toe if can…
· Bathrobe/pajamas/ etc for common areas
· Thermal underwear (if you plan on a lot of camping – optional, I seldom use)
Sundries & Misc.
· 100% DEET – small bottle
· Shaving stuff (I don’t shave until Herb and Howie force me)
· Wipes/Field TP
· Soap/shampoo (the hotel won’t supply any – but you can buy locally)
· Medicines, band-aids, Excedrin/Motrin/Tylenol (no USA medicines in GL)
· Prescription medicines – make sure you have fresh refills
· Sunglasses
· Batteries (“AA”, “AAA”)
· Tools (pliers, knife, etc – all in one)
· Tape for packing
· Plastic shrink wrap on a roll for rock wrapping (bubble pack available locally for a fee)
· Tape (adhesive for gauze, for rock tagging)
· Sharpie for writing
· Reading material (off hours assuming there will be some) or other down-time activity things
Equipment
· Backpack
· Hammer
· Chisels (2)
· UV tent (BBQ grill cover)
· Tent and accessories
· Sleeping bag (synthetic, not down)
· Water bottle/camel pack
UV Prospecting
· UV Light with spare bulb
· Battery packs
· Battery charger w/ 220v adaptor
· Fluorescent marker tape
· UV/Safety glasses
Food
The hotel has cooking facilities and we can buy food locally. Snacks (USA style) are good to bring as the stores don’t seem to carry much of that….
· Dry mix Gatorade
· Peanut butter
· Energy bars/Crackers packs
· Packaged tuna
· Ramen noodle soup
· MREs (Heater Meals – self heating, just add water)
· Oatmeal (packets, instant)
High Tech Gear
· Flashlight/Headlamp – LED headlamps are great
· GPS
· GMRS Walkie Talkie (I use a combined unit – GPS/GMRS, Garmin Rino)
· Laser (J)
· UV LED flashlight for LW
· Camera – small and light good
· Alarm clock if you need one – but really not needed. You will learn to hate me as I pound on doors.
Things I see no purpose in bringing, but I have seen people bring (but that’s just me)
· Laptop (take a break – relax, let your hair down!) You can use Peter’s ‘puter to send/receive email.
· Cell phone - (You don’t want a cell phone. First, odds are poor it will work either in town or (especially) in the hills, even if a spiffy ‘tri-band’ model with international roaming. Second, if it did work, it might ring. And that wouldn’t be good. Finally, you will be looking for things to dump from pockets rather than add. But you can always bring it and see for yourself)
· Knee pads (useless)
· Stools to sit on while searching rocks (roflmao)
· Walking sticks (IMHO dangerous)
· Stove – fuel available in Narsaq (but more a hassle than anything else IMHO)
This is a start. Perhaps other folks can chime in and add/subtract from the list’ then I’ll put it on the blog for future reference. Remember – you’re only in Greenland for 10 days and you have a lot to bring just to support your prospecting activities. Towards the end we’re all running out of clean clothes and getting quite raunchy – but we’ve got kilos of rocks! Try to reserve a clean set of clothes for the return trip – the people on the plane will appreciate it.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Friday, April 11, 2008
LiFE Battery Packs
LiFE Battery Packs
With an exceptional “power to weight” ratio, durability, and safe operation, LiFE Battery Packsare the next generation battery for handheld portable UV lamps. Using patented lithium-ion chemistry (based on new nanoscale material developed at MIT), these packs provide high performance and abuse-tolerance unmatched by any other battery technology.
Power
· 13.2vdc – extra power, increased light, less weight. Lightweight, small battery packs - 2.3AH or 4.6AH. (higher amperages can be had)
· Maximum power to end of charge, no degradation in lamp output.
· Ultra fast charge –less than 5 minutes to charge to 90% capacity, full charge in less than one hour. No more waiting overnight for a charge.
· Thousands of recharge cycles when used at low-discharge rates, unmatched by any other battery technology.
More volts, longer, than other batteries - UV lamps powered by 12vdc batteries are capable of operating at 14vdc (the output of a charging car battery) and shine brightest at the higher voltage. A constant 13.2v instead of a slowly dropping 12v provides more light output, and brighter finds! Lightweight means you can carry more rocks!
Safety
· Inherently safer chemistry
· Superior abuse tolerance
Safer technology than NiMH, NiCD or even SLA - Nanophosphate™ technology is designed to be highly abuse-tolerant while meeting the most demanding requirements of power, energy, operating temperature range, cycle life and shelf life. Multiple layers of protection are employed at the chemistry, cell and pack level to achieve an energy storage solution with superior safety and abuse tolerance. (As with all batteries, charging should not be done unattended)
Life
· 10+ year projected shelf life, will not self discharge
· Industry leading cycle life – thousands of charge cycles
· Environmentally friendly chemistry
Long life – in the field and on the shelf - Rechargeable lead-acid (SLA), NiCD, and NiMH batteries will “self-discharge” when sitting on the shelf. Some (such as lead-acid) can be damaged by long-term storage and rendered unusable. UV-PowerPaks will last years without use, and can be recharged thousands of times.
Battery Pack Specifications
2 hour Battery - A small exceptionally light pack with over 2 hours of power – rechargeable in 15 minutes. Lightweight - can easily be carried in a pocket. Two packs will provide an evening of lamping without even being aware that you’re carrying a battery – or use just one pack; it can be recharged in under ½ hour using your car/truck battery.
· Power: 2.3AH (amp hours) at 13.2vdc. Will power the average lamp for over two hours, longer with intermittent “lamp on” time. High constant voltage output insures maximum lamp brightness.
· Weight and Size: 12 ozs, 4 ½” x 2 ½” x 1” (a little bigger than a pack of cigarettes)
· Charge time (from a full discharge state): Under 45 minutes for a full charge
· Connectors: High current, high reliability Anderson Power Pole with locking connector (cigarette lighter connector adapter available). Auxiliary balancing connector assures full balanced charge of each cell.
4 hour Battery - For those who need more power, longer, the 4 hour pack is essentially two “2 hour” packs wired together. Over 4 hours from one lightweight pack.
· Power: 4.6AH (amp hours) at 13.2vdc. Will power the average lamp for over four hours, longer with intermittent “lamp on” time. High constant voltage output insures maximum lamp brightness.
· Weight and Size: 1 Lb, 7 ozs, 4 ½” x 2 ½” x 2”
· Charge time (from a full discharge state): Under 1 hour for a full charge
· Connectors: High current, high reliability Anderson Power Pole with locking connector (cigarette lighter connector adapter available). Auxiliary balancing connector assures full charge of each cell. (Inquire for SuperBright II connector).
Required Charger: For both batteries - Hyperion EOS 5i (available separately) – Universal AC power (110v to 240v)/DC powered (12vdc car battery), quick charge, LCD status display, automatic cell balancing. Can also charge other types of batteries such as lead-acid, NiCD, and NiMH.
Optional Cigarette Lighter Connector – Adapts new battery pack connectors to lamps using old-style connectors. If possible we recommend replacing your old connector with the new style powerpole connectors.
HYPERION EOS 5I DP Charger
The EOS 5i DP AC/DC is a versatile, easy-to-use charger with special features for fast charging of 2.3AH and 4.6AH LiFE battery packs – at home or in the field! It can also be used to charge many other types of battery packs. AC/DC operation allows charging directly from AC wall supply while at home OR from a 12V DC battery while at the field. LBA10Cell Balancer (included) insures proper cell balancing and long life.(This charger is required to charge UV-PowerPak batteries – do not attempt to charge with any other charger.)
Specifications:
· Two INPUT power choices, power from home AC, or car battery
o Use AC 100~240V at home
o DC 11~15V anywhere
· 2 Line LCD for charge monitor and post data display
· Charge/Discharge (useful for cell balancing)
· 1-14 cell NiCd/NiMH Batteries
· 2-12v Lead Acid Batteries
· 1-5 cell Lithium Ion or Lithium Polymer Batteries
· Cell balancing - LBA10 included
· 0.1-5A Charge Current
· Audible Function Alarm
· Output Charge Cord/Connector set included ($4.00+ value)
· Double-length Input cord for convenience
Why LiFE?
· Light weight!
· Higher voltage, more lamp watts
· Constant power to the end of the charge
· Quick recharge (10 - 30 minutes)
· Reliable – thousands of charge cycles
Sealed lead acid batteries are fine if you’re starting a car. But they have inherent problems, as do other technologies. Over time an SLA battery will simply go dead. These types of batteries are not made for deep discharge, or for sitting on a shelf over the long winter months. Life expectancy can be as little as 200 charge cycles – at best 500 cycles. And the worst thing about it is that you probably won’t even know until your light finally just won’t light (or the battery boils over during charging). NiMH and NiCD are a little better, but come with their own set of problems. And they all take 8 to 10 hours to recharge!
This chart compares the brightness (actual watts, over 8 hour time period) of an 11 watt lamp powered by a 7 pound, 8AH lead-acid battery to a lamp powered by a set of two 4.6AH (9.2AH total) UV-PowerPak batteries (total weight of less than 3 lbs).
What is Cell Balancing?
12V battery packs are made by “stringing together” lower voltage individual batteries. A typical individual battery cell generates around two volts (on average). If you wire 6 of these cells in series you will get 12vdc (lead-acid for example). Some cells may generate only 1.2v, thus 10 cells are needed to get 12vdc (NiMH). Others may generate slightly more voltage, but the principal remains the same. Simply wire in series the number of batteries needed to get 12vdc.
Because of production tolerances, uneven temperature distribution and differences in the ageing characteristics of particular cells it is possible that individual cells in a series chain could become overstressed leading to premature failure of the cell. During the charging cycle, if there is a degraded cell in the chain with a diminished capacity, there is a danger that once it has reached its full charge it will be subject to overcharging until the rest of the cells in the chain reach their full charge. The result is temperature and pressure build up and possible damage to the cell. During discharging, it is even possible for the voltage on the weaker cells to be reversed as they become fully discharged before the rest of the cells resulting in (permanent) failure of the cell.
Because Lead acid and NiMH cells can withstand a level of over-voltage without sustaining permanent damage, a degree of cell balancing or charge equalization can occur naturally with these technologies simply by prolonging the charging time since the fully charged cells will release energy by gassing (getting hot) until the weaker cells reach their full charge. Usually this is not harmful to these cells unless the imbalance is severe – then heat can permanently damage a cell, or worse – cause a fire. Although the problem is reduced with Lead acid, NiMH batteries and some other cell chemistries, it is not completely eliminated and solutions should be used for most multicell applications. Heat is a battery's enemy so we must do everything to limit this heat, but insure maximum charge.
Lithium cells cannot tolerate over-charging. The cells in the UV-PowerPaks are Lithium Ion and thus need some kind of balancing to prevent this from happening. This is taken care of automatically during the charge process by the Hyperion Charger and LBA10 Cell Balancer. At the end of a charge each cell in the battery pack will be charged to its optimum voltage, ready for an evening’s use.
A side benefit to this balancing procedure is MAXIMUM POWER (all cells are fully charged, doing their job) and longer life from your battery pack – both in charge times, and in simple longevity. A lead-acid battery with a discharged cell - at a minimum - will provide less runtime, and can risk cell reversal and ultimate failure of the entire battery. NiMH packs can heat up to a point where they might even catch fire if not protected by an over temperature sensor during charging. Intelligent charging and safe battery technology solves this problem and is recommended for all multi-cell applications – and is required for UV-PowerPak Lithium Battery Packs.
With an exceptional “power to weight” ratio, durability, and safe operation, LiFE Battery Packsare the next generation battery for handheld portable UV lamps. Using patented lithium-ion chemistry (based on new nanoscale material developed at MIT), these packs provide high performance and abuse-tolerance unmatched by any other battery technology.
Power
· 13.2vdc – extra power, increased light, less weight. Lightweight, small battery packs - 2.3AH or 4.6AH. (higher amperages can be had)
· Maximum power to end of charge, no degradation in lamp output.
· Ultra fast charge –less than 5 minutes to charge to 90% capacity, full charge in less than one hour. No more waiting overnight for a charge.
· Thousands of recharge cycles when used at low-discharge rates, unmatched by any other battery technology.
More volts, longer, than other batteries - UV lamps powered by 12vdc batteries are capable of operating at 14vdc (the output of a charging car battery) and shine brightest at the higher voltage. A constant 13.2v instead of a slowly dropping 12v provides more light output, and brighter finds! Lightweight means you can carry more rocks!
Safety
· Inherently safer chemistry
· Superior abuse tolerance
Safer technology than NiMH, NiCD or even SLA - Nanophosphate™ technology is designed to be highly abuse-tolerant while meeting the most demanding requirements of power, energy, operating temperature range, cycle life and shelf life. Multiple layers of protection are employed at the chemistry, cell and pack level to achieve an energy storage solution with superior safety and abuse tolerance. (As with all batteries, charging should not be done unattended)
Life
· 10+ year projected shelf life, will not self discharge
· Industry leading cycle life – thousands of charge cycles
· Environmentally friendly chemistry
Long life – in the field and on the shelf - Rechargeable lead-acid (SLA), NiCD, and NiMH batteries will “self-discharge” when sitting on the shelf. Some (such as lead-acid) can be damaged by long-term storage and rendered unusable. UV-PowerPaks will last years without use, and can be recharged thousands of times.
Battery Pack Specifications
2 hour Battery - A small exceptionally light pack with over 2 hours of power – rechargeable in 15 minutes. Lightweight - can easily be carried in a pocket. Two packs will provide an evening of lamping without even being aware that you’re carrying a battery – or use just one pack; it can be recharged in under ½ hour using your car/truck battery.
· Power: 2.3AH (amp hours) at 13.2vdc. Will power the average lamp for over two hours, longer with intermittent “lamp on” time. High constant voltage output insures maximum lamp brightness.
· Weight and Size: 12 ozs, 4 ½” x 2 ½” x 1” (a little bigger than a pack of cigarettes)
· Charge time (from a full discharge state): Under 45 minutes for a full charge
· Connectors: High current, high reliability Anderson Power Pole with locking connector (cigarette lighter connector adapter available). Auxiliary balancing connector assures full balanced charge of each cell.
4 hour Battery - For those who need more power, longer, the 4 hour pack is essentially two “2 hour” packs wired together. Over 4 hours from one lightweight pack.
· Power: 4.6AH (amp hours) at 13.2vdc. Will power the average lamp for over four hours, longer with intermittent “lamp on” time. High constant voltage output insures maximum lamp brightness.
· Weight and Size: 1 Lb, 7 ozs, 4 ½” x 2 ½” x 2”
· Charge time (from a full discharge state): Under 1 hour for a full charge
· Connectors: High current, high reliability Anderson Power Pole with locking connector (cigarette lighter connector adapter available). Auxiliary balancing connector assures full charge of each cell. (Inquire for SuperBright II connector).
Required Charger: For both batteries - Hyperion EOS 5i (available separately) – Universal AC power (110v to 240v)/DC powered (12vdc car battery), quick charge, LCD status display, automatic cell balancing. Can also charge other types of batteries such as lead-acid, NiCD, and NiMH.
Optional Cigarette Lighter Connector – Adapts new battery pack connectors to lamps using old-style connectors. If possible we recommend replacing your old connector with the new style powerpole connectors.
HYPERION EOS 5I DP Charger
The EOS 5i DP AC/DC is a versatile, easy-to-use charger with special features for fast charging of 2.3AH and 4.6AH LiFE battery packs – at home or in the field! It can also be used to charge many other types of battery packs. AC/DC operation allows charging directly from AC wall supply while at home OR from a 12V DC battery while at the field. LBA10Cell Balancer (included) insures proper cell balancing and long life.(This charger is required to charge UV-PowerPak batteries – do not attempt to charge with any other charger.)
Specifications:
· Two INPUT power choices, power from home AC, or car battery
o Use AC 100~240V at home
o DC 11~15V anywhere
· 2 Line LCD for charge monitor and post data display
· Charge/Discharge (useful for cell balancing)
· 1-14 cell NiCd/NiMH Batteries
· 2-12v Lead Acid Batteries
· 1-5 cell Lithium Ion or Lithium Polymer Batteries
· Cell balancing - LBA10 included
· 0.1-5A Charge Current
· Audible Function Alarm
· Output Charge Cord/Connector set included ($4.00+ value)
· Double-length Input cord for convenience
Why LiFE?
· Light weight!
· Higher voltage, more lamp watts
· Constant power to the end of the charge
· Quick recharge (10 - 30 minutes)
· Reliable – thousands of charge cycles
Sealed lead acid batteries are fine if you’re starting a car. But they have inherent problems, as do other technologies. Over time an SLA battery will simply go dead. These types of batteries are not made for deep discharge, or for sitting on a shelf over the long winter months. Life expectancy can be as little as 200 charge cycles – at best 500 cycles. And the worst thing about it is that you probably won’t even know until your light finally just won’t light (or the battery boils over during charging). NiMH and NiCD are a little better, but come with their own set of problems. And they all take 8 to 10 hours to recharge!
This chart compares the brightness (actual watts, over 8 hour time period) of an 11 watt lamp powered by a 7 pound, 8AH lead-acid battery to a lamp powered by a set of two 4.6AH (9.2AH total) UV-PowerPak batteries (total weight of less than 3 lbs).
What is Cell Balancing?
12V battery packs are made by “stringing together” lower voltage individual batteries. A typical individual battery cell generates around two volts (on average). If you wire 6 of these cells in series you will get 12vdc (lead-acid for example). Some cells may generate only 1.2v, thus 10 cells are needed to get 12vdc (NiMH). Others may generate slightly more voltage, but the principal remains the same. Simply wire in series the number of batteries needed to get 12vdc.
Because of production tolerances, uneven temperature distribution and differences in the ageing characteristics of particular cells it is possible that individual cells in a series chain could become overstressed leading to premature failure of the cell. During the charging cycle, if there is a degraded cell in the chain with a diminished capacity, there is a danger that once it has reached its full charge it will be subject to overcharging until the rest of the cells in the chain reach their full charge. The result is temperature and pressure build up and possible damage to the cell. During discharging, it is even possible for the voltage on the weaker cells to be reversed as they become fully discharged before the rest of the cells resulting in (permanent) failure of the cell.
Because Lead acid and NiMH cells can withstand a level of over-voltage without sustaining permanent damage, a degree of cell balancing or charge equalization can occur naturally with these technologies simply by prolonging the charging time since the fully charged cells will release energy by gassing (getting hot) until the weaker cells reach their full charge. Usually this is not harmful to these cells unless the imbalance is severe – then heat can permanently damage a cell, or worse – cause a fire. Although the problem is reduced with Lead acid, NiMH batteries and some other cell chemistries, it is not completely eliminated and solutions should be used for most multicell applications. Heat is a battery's enemy so we must do everything to limit this heat, but insure maximum charge.
Lithium cells cannot tolerate over-charging. The cells in the UV-PowerPaks are Lithium Ion and thus need some kind of balancing to prevent this from happening. This is taken care of automatically during the charge process by the Hyperion Charger and LBA10 Cell Balancer. At the end of a charge each cell in the battery pack will be charged to its optimum voltage, ready for an evening’s use.
A side benefit to this balancing procedure is MAXIMUM POWER (all cells are fully charged, doing their job) and longer life from your battery pack – both in charge times, and in simple longevity. A lead-acid battery with a discharged cell - at a minimum - will provide less runtime, and can risk cell reversal and ultimate failure of the entire battery. NiMH packs can heat up to a point where they might even catch fire if not protected by an over temperature sensor during charging. Intelligent charging and safe battery technology solves this problem and is recommended for all multi-cell applications – and is required for UV-PowerPak Lithium Battery Packs.
Batteries Rehashed
There's been a lot of questions and individual emails discussing batteries and lamps. I took the best of them and just threw them together here for reference. Maybe someday I'll get some time to do a proper writeup - but for now, here's the info. I'll also post a paper I did on LiFE batteries just for general knowledge.
NiMH battery packs
Jim sent an email a few weeks ago about batteries and packs and cables and stuff. I am condensing it here to make sure everyone gets it....
There are a couple of varieties of battery packs available. A 10AH battery will last twice as long as a 5AH battery, but is twice as heavy. The choice is yours....
Fanny Pack Battery: 12V 10Ah (120 Wh) NiMH in Belt Bag + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Lighting $139.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357 - Fanny pack, your choice
Belt Bag Power Kit : NiMH 12V 10Ah (120Wh, Dx10 Hump) + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $154.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2990 - Belt pack, your choice
Belt Bag Power Pack: 12V 5 Ah (60 Wh) NiMH (Hump) Battery + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $89.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3044 - smaller capacity, but lighter
For WTC owners one (or two or three) of the above is all you need. The lamp will plug directly into the pack with the cigarette lighter connector. I recommend at least two battery packs, and only one charger. Use one in the field while the other is in the hotel charging. I like the 5AH batteries - they are lighter; but you might consider 3 packs in that case just to be sure you have enough power.
For Superbright owners:
You will need the B215 cord from UV systems that allows your superbright to be plugged into a cigarette jack. Then the above batteries can power the Superbright.
B215 Auxiliary fifteen foot cord to operate your SuperBright II from your cars cigarette lighter jack. $29.95 (keep in mind this is a 15 ft straight cored instead of the 6 ft coiled cord found on the battery pack)
http://www.uvsystems.com/checkout/agora.cgi?p_id=3_5&xm=on
UV Systems offers a car lighter cord - that solves everyone's problems when hooking up to 3rd party batteries. All they have to do is buy that and one of the battery kits you suggested. I agree wholeheartedly with your analysis of the cigarette lighter connector - but that's what everyone uses. I use a different connector on my lamps - be sure to take a look at it this summer; it may work for you...
13.2V NiMH should not be a problem. They rarely get up to 16v, and if they do it will only be for a short time - rapidly settling in at 13.2v. Car batteries (lead/acid) are similar - they charge at 15v +/- and will initially put out around 14v or more for the first few minutes... When charging the car can put out 15+ volts so the lamps must be capable of handling that voltage...
So - sounds like the SBII cable problem is resolved - everyone get it?
5AH vs 10AH - more battery power (AH) is always good. The tradeoff is weight. A personal decision... But remember, two is better than one...
Here is a quick and dirty solution to convert your SuperBright to NiMH.
First choose one of these battery kits. The have the NiMH batteries in a belt bag or fanny pack with a cigarette style connector. They also include an appropriate universal charger.
Fanny Pack Battery: 12V 10Ah (120 Wh) NiMH in Belt Bag + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Lighting $139.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357
Belt Bag Power Kit : NiMH 12V 10Ah (120Wh, Dx10 Hump) + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $154.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2990
Belt Bag Power Pack: 12V 5 Ah (60 Wh) NiMH (Hump) Battery + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $89.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3044
5Ah vs 10Ah
The Superbright draws 1.53A so the 5AH pack will last approximately 3 hours and the 10AH pack approximately 6 hours.
For guys like Mark and Howie that know where the rocks are and what they look like the 5AH pack is probably enough. For the rest of us that need to lamp dozens of square meters of ground to find the rocks the 10AH pack might be a better choice. Taking two 5AH packs up the mountain might be an advantage since when one dies you know you are exactly half way thru your power.
12V vs 13.2V
Don't exceed 12V without consulting the lamp manufacturer! The 13.2V battery pack when freshly charged will be putting out 16V. This may be to much for your lamp. The second step is to buy the B215 cord from UV systems that allows your supper bright to be plugged into a cigarette jack.
B215 Auxiliary fifteen foot cord to operate your SuperBright II from your cars cigarette lighter jack. $29.95 (keep in mind this is a 15 ft straight cored instead of the 6 ft coiled cord found on the battery pack)
http://www.uvsystems.com/checkout/agora.cgi?p_id=3_5&xm=on
I used the above system in Greenland in 2006. The Superbright and the batteries performed great but the cigarette jacks SUCKED ASS! They are always pulling out and make intermittent contact. I sort of solved this problem by using some rubber bands to hold them in. The other problems is the wires spin around inside the connector and then short out or break off. This happened to me but fortunately I brought two battery packs so I had a backup.
What I ended up doing when I got home is replacing all of the cigarette style connectors with 4-pin microphone jacks from Radio Shack. These can be screwed together to prevent them from pulling out.
4-Pin Panel Mount Microphone Audio Jack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103996&cp=2032058.2032231.2032280&pg=6&parentPage=family
4-Pin Female CB and HAM Radio Microphone Plug
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103255&cp=2032058.2032231.2032280&pg=11&parentPage=family
The female connector goes on the battery side so there are no exposed pins with power on them to short out. The male connector goes to the lamp side. This is a panel mount device so you will need to use some heat shrink to seal up the back.
The other end of the cord goes to the connecter on the superbright
This is what it says on my Superbright II Connector:
Outer section says: Amphenol C16-1
Inner section says 3109
These are the pinouts for this connector that Don prints on the side of the superbright.
12VDC 1.53A
1 & 2 = +
3 & GND = -
The 4 pin microphone connecters are infinitely better than the cigarette jacks but they are still not perfect. The one problem I have found is if you insert them wrong you can get them in far enough to make contact which will blow the fuse. My solution is to be careful and carry extra fuses. I eventually want to get some mil spec connectors but have not had time to search.
Lamps and Batteries
I used the NiMH batteries last time and was very pleased with them. The new Lithium Ion batteries look very interesting. I send Mark a bunch of technical questions on those. My only electrical problem was with the cigarette style connectors on my battery packs. These SUCK! Here are the problems:
Wires break off inside. If you use these cigarette style connectors make sure you tape the wires so there is no movement of the wires going to the connectors. Otherwise the wires break off at the soldered connections.
Connectors do not make good contact. I was always fiddling around with he connectors trying to get them to make contact. I ended up using a rubber band to always keep pressure on the connector The connectors keep pulling out if you catch the wire on anything Cigarette connectors have high resistance. After using the light for a while the connector would get noticeably warm. This indicated you were dissipating power in the contact resistance. This is power that is not making it to your lights.
I ended up replacing all my cigarette style connectors with some 4 terminal microphone connectors from radio shack. These screw together and solved all the above problems.
Question comes up about lamps.....
There are two primary manufacturers of lamps (IMHO) - Way Too Cool and UV Systems. Each has advantages/disadvantages...
Way Too Cool - multiple wave lengths in one unit, bright, cheap - not very rugged
UV Systems - rugged, quite expensive IMHO
Having experienced both of these in the rugged environment of Greenland I've found the UV Systems SuperBright to hold up best. But neither will garner my endorsement (in the lingo of the times). Both have their problems, although the SuperBright reportedly has fixed the problem with the connector, and perhaps the Way Too Cool units are being built sturdier.
The SuperBright has been the industry standard for years. It is rugged but requires a damn lead acid battery :-( (as do all the other lamps). But you can reduce battery weight by going with NiMH or Poly-Ion.
Personally I'm so fed up with field lights that I build my own. This year I have what I believe will be the best of the best - we'll see. 26 watts in a light, sturdy handheld lamp.... I really only build these because I love tinkering, and have time on my hands.
I'd be interested in other opinions from the folks on this list. I know they all have at least one of the two mentioned above. FWIW - Howie and Don are gambling on my light this year.... (they both finally put their superbrights out to pasture).
You *will* see a constant theme in my responses to equipment, etc. Don't scrimp! Buy the best you can buy. You're going a very long way, to find the rarest rocks on earth, and will probably only do it once. Now is not the time to save pennies.
I have an electronics background, and will be happy to try and fix anything that breaks in the field. But I need to know what lights people are bringing so I can bring parts to repair them.
So, if I get:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357This one is 10AH - heavier than I like - but if you're happy with it, it's certainly ok. It's the complete package, case, charger and one battery pack and http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4096] These are the individual battery packs.
FWIW - I prefer these: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2387 - they're only 5AH, but lighter and cheaper. The charger is different, and the connection is also different. I sent an email previously describing all this. But what you have picked will certainly work, and it's a complete package - nothing else to buy (except for the Europe power adaptor)
I will be able to:
1) have 1 pack with me and 1 charging - both handling long hours of use10AH on each pack - will give you about 8 to 10 hours on your lamp, plenty
2) AC wall charging (assuming I bring an appropriate AC adapter for Greenland power)The charger is universal meaning it will operate on 220v, but you will need the special adaptor for plugging into European plugs.
3) Much lighter batter than my lead acid battery I have nowDunno - how much does your battery weigh now? This new battery weighs 3.6 LBS. If you have a 7/8AH lead acid ti probably wieghs 6 to 7 LBS
Subject: RE: NiMH battery packs
Sorry - forgot to answer that. "Dx10" means 10 each "D" cells. "Hump" is the way they are packaged. "D" refers to the size of the battery - i.e. - D, C, AA, AAA. That pack is comprised of ten D cells, in a "hump" configuration (don't know why they call it hump) - I guess it's how they stack the cell together.
NiMH cells are 1.2v each (as opposed to 1.5v for alkaline cells - Eveready type batteries for your flashlight). It takes ten of them to make 12 volts....
The best sized NiMH battery packs I've seen are those made with ten "C" cells, 5AH (at least I think they are C cells - or maybe a longer version of a C cell)
Batteries are spec'd in terms of [amp hours] or sometimes [watt hours]. It all refers to the amount of power a battery can supply. A 10AH (amp hour) battery at 12 volts will supply 120 watt hours of power until it is discharged (used up).
All we really need to be concerned with is the amp hours. If you have a lamp that uses (draws) 1 amp, and you have a 10AH battery, your light will work for about ten hours. This is not too far off for the WTC lights - they draw around 0.75A to 1.25A depending on how many lights you have on, how cold it is, and the phase of the moon. Figure that you need to feed it 1 amp - makes for easy calculations.....
I recommend multiple batteries, lower weight. Commonly folks use 5AH batteries (powers your lamp for 4 to 5 hours). They will carry two of these in the field, and perhaps have one or two charging back at the hotel for the next day. They take up to 8 hours to charge, so 3 would work fine assuming you don't lamp for more than 8 to 10 hours per day. One charges while you are in the field, the other can be charged overnight - and you'll have two fresh batteries for the next day.
Regarding use of your lamp: the "on time" will be much less than the time you spend in the field. You will only turn your lamp on when you are examining rocks under your tent - probably 15 minutes out of every hour at best. Plus you have travel time to get to/from the sites, so you will find you will probably use your lamp no more than 2 to 3 hours per day. If we go out at night it will get more extensive use....
Someone else chime in???? Maybe explain it better?
NiMH battery packs
Jim sent an email a few weeks ago about batteries and packs and cables and stuff. I am condensing it here to make sure everyone gets it....
There are a couple of varieties of battery packs available. A 10AH battery will last twice as long as a 5AH battery, but is twice as heavy. The choice is yours....
Fanny Pack Battery: 12V 10Ah (120 Wh) NiMH in Belt Bag + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Lighting $139.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357 - Fanny pack, your choice
Belt Bag Power Kit : NiMH 12V 10Ah (120Wh, Dx10 Hump) + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $154.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2990 - Belt pack, your choice
Belt Bag Power Pack: 12V 5 Ah (60 Wh) NiMH (Hump) Battery + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $89.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3044 - smaller capacity, but lighter
For WTC owners one (or two or three) of the above is all you need. The lamp will plug directly into the pack with the cigarette lighter connector. I recommend at least two battery packs, and only one charger. Use one in the field while the other is in the hotel charging. I like the 5AH batteries - they are lighter; but you might consider 3 packs in that case just to be sure you have enough power.
For Superbright owners:
You will need the B215 cord from UV systems that allows your superbright to be plugged into a cigarette jack. Then the above batteries can power the Superbright.
B215 Auxiliary fifteen foot cord to operate your SuperBright II from your cars cigarette lighter jack. $29.95 (keep in mind this is a 15 ft straight cored instead of the 6 ft coiled cord found on the battery pack)
http://www.uvsystems.com/checkout/agora.cgi?p_id=3_5&xm=on
UV Systems offers a car lighter cord - that solves everyone's problems when hooking up to 3rd party batteries. All they have to do is buy that and one of the battery kits you suggested. I agree wholeheartedly with your analysis of the cigarette lighter connector - but that's what everyone uses. I use a different connector on my lamps - be sure to take a look at it this summer; it may work for you...
13.2V NiMH should not be a problem. They rarely get up to 16v, and if they do it will only be for a short time - rapidly settling in at 13.2v. Car batteries (lead/acid) are similar - they charge at 15v +/- and will initially put out around 14v or more for the first few minutes... When charging the car can put out 15+ volts so the lamps must be capable of handling that voltage...
So - sounds like the SBII cable problem is resolved - everyone get it?
5AH vs 10AH - more battery power (AH) is always good. The tradeoff is weight. A personal decision... But remember, two is better than one...
Here is a quick and dirty solution to convert your SuperBright to NiMH.
First choose one of these battery kits. The have the NiMH batteries in a belt bag or fanny pack with a cigarette style connector. They also include an appropriate universal charger.
Fanny Pack Battery: 12V 10Ah (120 Wh) NiMH in Belt Bag + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Lighting $139.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357
Belt Bag Power Kit : NiMH 12V 10Ah (120Wh, Dx10 Hump) + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $154.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2990
Belt Bag Power Pack: 12V 5 Ah (60 Wh) NiMH (Hump) Battery + Fast Smart Charger for Portable Devices $89.95
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3044
5Ah vs 10Ah
The Superbright draws 1.53A so the 5AH pack will last approximately 3 hours and the 10AH pack approximately 6 hours.
For guys like Mark and Howie that know where the rocks are and what they look like the 5AH pack is probably enough. For the rest of us that need to lamp dozens of square meters of ground to find the rocks the 10AH pack might be a better choice. Taking two 5AH packs up the mountain might be an advantage since when one dies you know you are exactly half way thru your power.
12V vs 13.2V
Don't exceed 12V without consulting the lamp manufacturer! The 13.2V battery pack when freshly charged will be putting out 16V. This may be to much for your lamp. The second step is to buy the B215 cord from UV systems that allows your supper bright to be plugged into a cigarette jack.
B215 Auxiliary fifteen foot cord to operate your SuperBright II from your cars cigarette lighter jack. $29.95 (keep in mind this is a 15 ft straight cored instead of the 6 ft coiled cord found on the battery pack)
http://www.uvsystems.com/checkout/agora.cgi?p_id=3_5&xm=on
I used the above system in Greenland in 2006. The Superbright and the batteries performed great but the cigarette jacks SUCKED ASS! They are always pulling out and make intermittent contact. I sort of solved this problem by using some rubber bands to hold them in. The other problems is the wires spin around inside the connector and then short out or break off. This happened to me but fortunately I brought two battery packs so I had a backup.
What I ended up doing when I got home is replacing all of the cigarette style connectors with 4-pin microphone jacks from Radio Shack. These can be screwed together to prevent them from pulling out.
4-Pin Panel Mount Microphone Audio Jack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103996&cp=2032058.2032231.2032280&pg=6&parentPage=family
4-Pin Female CB and HAM Radio Microphone Plug
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103255&cp=2032058.2032231.2032280&pg=11&parentPage=family
The female connector goes on the battery side so there are no exposed pins with power on them to short out. The male connector goes to the lamp side. This is a panel mount device so you will need to use some heat shrink to seal up the back.
The other end of the cord goes to the connecter on the superbright
This is what it says on my Superbright II Connector:
Outer section says: Amphenol C16-1
Inner section says 3109
These are the pinouts for this connector that Don prints on the side of the superbright.
12VDC 1.53A
1 & 2 = +
3 & GND = -
The 4 pin microphone connecters are infinitely better than the cigarette jacks but they are still not perfect. The one problem I have found is if you insert them wrong you can get them in far enough to make contact which will blow the fuse. My solution is to be careful and carry extra fuses. I eventually want to get some mil spec connectors but have not had time to search.
Lamps and Batteries
I used the NiMH batteries last time and was very pleased with them. The new Lithium Ion batteries look very interesting. I send Mark a bunch of technical questions on those. My only electrical problem was with the cigarette style connectors on my battery packs. These SUCK! Here are the problems:
Wires break off inside. If you use these cigarette style connectors make sure you tape the wires so there is no movement of the wires going to the connectors. Otherwise the wires break off at the soldered connections.
Connectors do not make good contact. I was always fiddling around with he connectors trying to get them to make contact. I ended up using a rubber band to always keep pressure on the connector The connectors keep pulling out if you catch the wire on anything Cigarette connectors have high resistance. After using the light for a while the connector would get noticeably warm. This indicated you were dissipating power in the contact resistance. This is power that is not making it to your lights.
I ended up replacing all my cigarette style connectors with some 4 terminal microphone connectors from radio shack. These screw together and solved all the above problems.
Question comes up about lamps.....
There are two primary manufacturers of lamps (IMHO) - Way Too Cool and UV Systems. Each has advantages/disadvantages...
Way Too Cool - multiple wave lengths in one unit, bright, cheap - not very rugged
UV Systems - rugged, quite expensive IMHO
Having experienced both of these in the rugged environment of Greenland I've found the UV Systems SuperBright to hold up best. But neither will garner my endorsement (in the lingo of the times). Both have their problems, although the SuperBright reportedly has fixed the problem with the connector, and perhaps the Way Too Cool units are being built sturdier.
The SuperBright has been the industry standard for years. It is rugged but requires a damn lead acid battery :-( (as do all the other lamps). But you can reduce battery weight by going with NiMH or Poly-Ion.
Personally I'm so fed up with field lights that I build my own. This year I have what I believe will be the best of the best - we'll see. 26 watts in a light, sturdy handheld lamp.... I really only build these because I love tinkering, and have time on my hands.
I'd be interested in other opinions from the folks on this list. I know they all have at least one of the two mentioned above. FWIW - Howie and Don are gambling on my light this year.... (they both finally put their superbrights out to pasture).
You *will* see a constant theme in my responses to equipment, etc. Don't scrimp! Buy the best you can buy. You're going a very long way, to find the rarest rocks on earth, and will probably only do it once. Now is not the time to save pennies.
I have an electronics background, and will be happy to try and fix anything that breaks in the field. But I need to know what lights people are bringing so I can bring parts to repair them.
So, if I get:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2357This one is 10AH - heavier than I like - but if you're happy with it, it's certainly ok. It's the complete package, case, charger and one battery pack and http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4096] These are the individual battery packs.
FWIW - I prefer these: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2387 - they're only 5AH, but lighter and cheaper. The charger is different, and the connection is also different. I sent an email previously describing all this. But what you have picked will certainly work, and it's a complete package - nothing else to buy (except for the Europe power adaptor)
I will be able to:
1) have 1 pack with me and 1 charging - both handling long hours of use10AH on each pack - will give you about 8 to 10 hours on your lamp, plenty
2) AC wall charging (assuming I bring an appropriate AC adapter for Greenland power)The charger is universal meaning it will operate on 220v, but you will need the special adaptor for plugging into European plugs.
3) Much lighter batter than my lead acid battery I have nowDunno - how much does your battery weigh now? This new battery weighs 3.6 LBS. If you have a 7/8AH lead acid ti probably wieghs 6 to 7 LBS
Subject: RE: NiMH battery packs
Sorry - forgot to answer that. "Dx10" means 10 each "D" cells. "Hump" is the way they are packaged. "D" refers to the size of the battery - i.e. - D, C, AA, AAA. That pack is comprised of ten D cells, in a "hump" configuration (don't know why they call it hump) - I guess it's how they stack the cell together.
NiMH cells are 1.2v each (as opposed to 1.5v for alkaline cells - Eveready type batteries for your flashlight). It takes ten of them to make 12 volts....
The best sized NiMH battery packs I've seen are those made with ten "C" cells, 5AH (at least I think they are C cells - or maybe a longer version of a C cell)
Batteries are spec'd in terms of [amp hours] or sometimes [watt hours]. It all refers to the amount of power a battery can supply. A 10AH (amp hour) battery at 12 volts will supply 120 watt hours of power until it is discharged (used up).
All we really need to be concerned with is the amp hours. If you have a lamp that uses (draws) 1 amp, and you have a 10AH battery, your light will work for about ten hours. This is not too far off for the WTC lights - they draw around 0.75A to 1.25A depending on how many lights you have on, how cold it is, and the phase of the moon. Figure that you need to feed it 1 amp - makes for easy calculations.....
I recommend multiple batteries, lower weight. Commonly folks use 5AH batteries (powers your lamp for 4 to 5 hours). They will carry two of these in the field, and perhaps have one or two charging back at the hotel for the next day. They take up to 8 hours to charge, so 3 would work fine assuming you don't lamp for more than 8 to 10 hours per day. One charges while you are in the field, the other can be charged overnight - and you'll have two fresh batteries for the next day.
Regarding use of your lamp: the "on time" will be much less than the time you spend in the field. You will only turn your lamp on when you are examining rocks under your tent - probably 15 minutes out of every hour at best. Plus you have travel time to get to/from the sites, so you will find you will probably use your lamp no more than 2 to 3 hours per day. If we go out at night it will get more extensive use....
Someone else chime in???? Maybe explain it better?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
