Sunday, February 24, 2008
Hammers, Chisels other Instruments of Destruction, More on Gear...
We've had a few emails discussing additional gear, hammers, and such....
Fly Vest - A great general purpose "pocket" vest allows you to carry cameras, batteries, small rocks, and other often needed items while hiking in a quickly accesable pocket. Bigger pockets are great for carrying battery packs. For this year I am considering a photographer's vest. It has less pockets (but bigger) than a fishing vest (I really don't plan on carrying dozens of lures, flys, hooks, etc) and seems somewhat sturdier. I carry my battery packs in this vest instead of on a belt so the vest has to be sturdy. Pants (cargo?) with pockets are handy also - by the time you get to the top of the mountain you'll have little rocks stashed everywhere - wondering if they glow....
Safety glasses - probably a very good idea, I wear glasses and find that they protect me well. You'll be hammering a lot of big rocks, with chips flying everywhere, plus - under your UV viewing tent the UV light can burn your eyes quickly.
Water bottle - I find that the Camelpaks work really well; very handy for drinking on the way up. But you'll still carry extra bottles of water most likely; they can be purchased at the local stores. You will need plenty of hydration. I usually refill my water from the snow-melt when in the mountains.
Hammers and Chisels - I buy all my hammers at Home Depot (and chisels). I find that fiberglass handles are the best; they are strong, but absorb the blows much better than metal handles. Wood is also fine. I would bring at least a 3 LB hammer, up to 6 LB with a 12" to 16" handle. You will be breaking big rocks and need something with some weight (but remember, you have to carry it up the mountain). We intend to have some big sledge hammers placed at a couple of strategic spots for those heavy duty boulder busting jobs. The photo shows my favorite hammer; it has a hammering face, and a chiseled face. Using two hammers (one to hit this one while holding it in place) can be very effective in busting boulders without busting your hands. The chiseled edge directs the blows onto the rock so that you will hopefully get a break in the direction you wish (not simple with Greenland rocks).
Chisels - absolutely get the kind with the hand guard - two each would be best. These are "throw aways" as they will not last the trip; the hills are filled with broken chisels. A nice 1" to 2" blade works best. (IMHO).
Chisels are used to wedge open cracks in large "in-place" rock, pry off big chunks, and for trimming. They don't last long! Sometimes they're just left in place after you've gotten them so wedged in that you can't retrieve them.
I don't like the Estwing type hammers (right). The bigger ones (crack hammers) are all metal and hard on my wrist/lower arm. The smaller geologist types are pretty much useless (but they make good chisels with a handle - for about three blows). The rocks we will encounter are big, ugly and damn hard. A little hammer is useless.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Got my Backpack "System" this weekend
For the past couple of years I've had a very large pack but it's finally worn out (amazing what carrying 20 kilos of rocks in a backpack can do !). This year I opted for a smaller pack, but much sturdier - along with a 2nd "side pack" for light, batteries and UV tent. I figure there are a couple of advantages to this: the smaller backpack will keep weight off my back, less bumping while walking, and is much sturdier than previous packs I've owned. The smaller side pack will work well as a "carrier" when working a prospect (hammer, chisel, light, battery, etc) - I can just leave the big pack and wander around with the smaller pack. Plus - keeping the necessary items close at hand on the way up will allow me access to quickly needed items without having to take off the big pack and search for stuff. This should be really handy as you are always tempted to stop at many spots "on the way" to check out a rock that just looks like it should glow.
These packs are from Maxpedition. "MAXPEDITION Hard-Use Nylon Gear is designed and constructed to withstand extreme conditions; in other words, we expect you to USE IT HARD in demanding situations and environments. Our company originated as a builder of premium-grade military equipment...". I think they're right. The material is very strong nylon, with a doubly strong bottom (the floor of your pack takes the biggest beating from the rocks inside, as well as abuse from dragging). It's filled with rows of strap holders (molle system) so you can customize it with all kinds of accessories (additional pockets, holders, etc). It also provides for a hydration system to carry a 100oz Camelbak.
The smaller side/front carry pack has room for batteries, my UV tent, chisel, GPS, camera, and I can clip my light to it. Thus I have everything I need on the way up right at my fingertips; I don't have to rummage in the big backpack everytime I want to check out a spot.
I like the smaller size and distribution. You don't really need that much space unless you're gonna be carrying lots of camping gear. And too much space tempts you to carry too many rocks - a serious problem in Ilimaussaq. I do have to solve one problem - there's really no straps for carrying my sleeping bag, but with the modular approach I can add straps and mount my bag to the bottom. All my other camping gear will fit nicely inside the main enclosure.
I also decided to try out a "Rollypoly" dump pouch. This is an expanding pouch which attached to your webbing, or mounts on a belt. It's nice and compact when rolled up, and expands into a big carrying bag unfolded.
Not sure how well this will work - a big load of rocks might not carry too well, but it might be nice for carrying equipment around from spot to spot - we'll see.
So - I'm now ready to pack my gear, adjust my straps, and get some experience with my new setup. I plan on hiking up and down my hill here in TN everyday for the next few months - fully loaded. My driveway is about the same as hiking the Taseq Slope; the rocks just aren't as interesting. But it will get me in great shape and allow me to figure out the best way to pack and carry for prospecting in Greenland.
Onward to GL08!
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Romancing the Stone
Inuit legend attributes tugtupite to “Tutu” - the reindeer girl. Tutu went to the mountains to give birth to her first child and during birth the miraculous life-giving bloods seeped into the mountain stones and created tugtupite. Thus it is known for life, romance and fertility....
(A painting done by a local artist, hanging in the lobby of the Narsaq Hospital, showing Tutu in the moutains giving birth)
What is tugtupite?
Tugtupite is one of the world’s few deep red gemstones, often translucent, and always brightly fluorescent. Often referred to as the "king of fluorescent minerals", it is known worldwide for its beauty under ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV light (or sunlight) the color deepens, sometimes to an almost grape color (a tenebrescent property). This color change can last for weeks, and is easily restored simply by exposure to sunlight.
Gem quality tugtupite is among the rarest of gemstones, only found in remote areas of Greenland - and always in small quantities. In high demand by collectors, the finest specimens are almost always reserved for jewelry. Tugtupite is only found in three areas in the world - Greenland, MSH, Canada, and Kola, Russia. It was first discovered in Greenland in 1957 (by European geologists - the Innuit had known about it for hundreds of years). The mines are located high in the mountains surrounding the fjords in an area known as the Ilimaussaq Complex - a unique geological formation approximately 8km x 20km in area. Greenland is the only supplier of gem quality tugtupite and is the only area where sufficient quantities can be found to supply the gem market with enough material to make this a marketable gemstone. Access to the mines is only by foot (and boat), and the rough material must be carried down the mountain by backpack. (There are no roads in Greenland even interconnecting cities, much less to the remote mountain areas.) The difficulty in finding gem quality specimens, mining them, and then porting them out of the mountains only adds to the value of this extremely unique, rare and beautiful gem.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
The weather, camping, and collecting
In Greenland the weather rules. Everyday we make the "plan du jour"; to attempt to do it ahead of time is futile. After 8 years of tours and collecting there is one thing I am certain of - you cannot be certain of Greenland weather. In the past 8 years we have had three years (2004, 2006, 2007) which were very soggy years. The other 5 ranged from exquisite sunny weather to overcast. Even during the soggy years we collected most everyday. Rain in Greenland is not like it is here - it is more of a misting than a hard rain. (Peter called me one time last summer all excited; he had seen lightning for one of the first times in Narsaq). But the rain does make the rocks very slippery, and the mountain streams rise sometimes to the point where we cannot cross. (we are working on a solution for that).
Why go to Greenland for Fluorescent Minerals?
Ilimaussaq Complex, South Greenland - In the past seven years a new locality has come to light (pun intended). The Ilimaussaq complex in Southern Greenland has been a famous center for geological exploration for hundreds of years. As early as 1806 mineralogists were exploring the unique geology of the complex; since then over two hundred minerals have been identified within the intrusion. Many are only known from a few areas in the world, and at least ten are unique to Ilimaussaq. The complex is also the type locale for dozens of species. But perhaps the most amazing fact (to a fluorescent collector) is that until 2000, Greenland’s only real claim to fame in the “glowhound” world was Tugtupite!
Today there are over 15 different fluorescent minerals identified, and scores waiting to be identified. The brightness of these pieces, along with many beautiful multi-color combinations, rivals those from Franklin. Many pieces exhibit dramatic phosphorescence or a remarkable tenebrescense (color change) found in few other minerals. No literature exists describing the fluorescence of the various minerals within the complex; few people have even brought a UV light to the area! Yet these minerals simply lie there – waiting for the venturous collector to shine a light on them and find the hobby’s next rarity! Fluorescent collecting in Greenland must be akin to collecting in Franklin in the old days; exciting, productive, and simply fascinating.
But – Greenland isn’t just a matter of hopping on I-95 and driving a couple of hours. Greenland is located just north of the location where the Titanic sank. Primarily an island covered in ice (the world’s largest island – even if it is mostly ice), the coastline actually has strips of green in the summer months (Erik the Red named it Greenland after he was booted out of Iceland – the ultimate deception people say, just to make others want to move with him!). Southern Greenland is “warmed” by the Gulf Stream and in the short summer months (June to September) averages in the 50’s to 60’s. But even during these “warm spells” one is amazed at the majestic icebergs floating in all the harbors and fjords, the glaciers, and the lingering snow covering that elusive piece of tugtupite.
Greenland was very much a part of Denmark until 1979 when a “Home Rule” Government was established, insuring that the culture and Greenland way of life would not be lost. Denmark still plays a major role in Greenland’s government, but the Greenlandic people control their destiny. They are a proud, self-sufficient people. Living off the land, they are great hunters and fisherman, and very proud of their natural resources. Greenland is one of the few undeveloped natural wonders left on earth one can visit and still experience nature’s beauty and solitude at her finest – without a single worry about terrorism, violence, or crime.
Getting to Greenland can be interesting. In 2003 Air Iceland opened a route to Southern Greenland making things a little easier – they fly twice a week (weather permitting) to Narsarsuaq (the only major airport in South Greenland). The only other way to get there is to fly all the way to Copenhagen (Denmark) and then fly back to Greenland (not a lot of fun), or to fly into an airport way up north and take "dgo sleds" down south (not entirely accurate, but might as well be). If the Greenland weather interferes flights might be diverted to Stromfjord Airbase in northern Greenland (or just sit in Reykjavik) to wait until it clears up. This is the first lesson in travel to Greenland – the weather rules. Thankfully, the summer months are usually quite cooperative.
Once in country the adventure begins. There are no roads connecting the cities (there really aren’t any cities either). The larger settlements have roads in town, mostly so people can drive down to their boats – the main mode of travel. Flying into Narsarsuaq (a bustling airport town of 200 people) one can travel by ferry or private boat to Narsaq; home for the next week while exploring the Ilimaussaq Complex. After this trip, one has an appreciation for the passengers on the Titanic as they traversed the ice filled waters of the North Atlantic.
Narsaq is a small village located about 16km outside the Ilimaussaq Complex. The people are used to geologists traveling there from all over the world. Several excellent guesthouses are available – one even has a restaurant! All have cooking facilities and you can cook up your own meals. There are two grocery stores in town stocked with the best shrimp, salmon, trout, lamb, whale, and seal around – all within easy walking distance. The locals speak Danish and Greenlandic and have a (reluctant) grasp of English. But most of all, they are friendly and quick to help in anyway they can.
Travel to/from the various areas within the Ilimaussaq complex is by boat or 4-wheel drive truck. An old road leads to the famous Kvanefjeld area (Tugtupite mines) and the Tasaq slopes. Other parts of the complex are accessible only by boat. Many of the locals will ferry people to various touristy type areas in the summer months for a reasonable fee.
The area is a large sprawling complex spanning several fjords and mountains. A road (or boat) only gets you to the base of the collecting areas. One must be prepared to hike up old river beds, climb slopes, and even do some relatively rugged climbing to get to some of the more productive areas. The maximum elevation is around 700 meters and usually easy to traverse. There are two major impediments to climbing: 1 - Rocks are everywhere! 2 - Everything glows! – it simply takes too long to get to the top because the climbers get lost collecting on the way up!
Boat Travel around Ilimaussaq
These trips are great opportunities for photos; the scenery is fantastic. Occasionally we will find ourselves navigating dense ice fields as the ice gets blown out of the fjord north of Narsaq and into the boating channels. Peter (our captain) is adept at navigating this ice, but it can still be cause for some anxious moments. I have over 30 years of boating experience in South Florida, but Peter still won't trust me to drive; "Black Ice - you must watch for the black ice!". He tells stories of icebergs barely poking out of the water, crystal clear such that they appear black (invisible). Hit one of those and you'll be launched out of the water just like a scene from Miami Vice!
Our daily plans are made each morning - according to the weather. We look for good boating weather and take advantage of it every day we can. The weather in Greenland is quite unpredictable and can change instantly. Winds blow up the fjords and create heavy seas which are impossible in a heavily loaded boat. Those days we spend our time in the Kvanefjeld area which we can access by 4-wheel drive.
Those who are interested can also make side trips by boat to the Ice Pack and glaciers, or to the Norse Ruins. A day spent fishing can be a wonderful break from the rigors of hauling rock.... There are several guides in Narsaq who will provide you with a wonderful day on the water.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
The Proper Gear
Stream Crossing
Originally uploaded by MinerShop
We must be prepared for all kinds of weather. In the past 7 years we have experienced hot sunny days, wet rainy days, and even hurricane force winds. A couple of those years it rained almost the entire time we were in Greenland, while other years we could not have asked for better weather. Rain gear is a must, good waterproof footwear, and cold-weather clothing. If we are unlucky enough to have another wet summer be prepared for some tricky stream crossings. The pic above shows one year when we used waders, but now we know better and will try to construct some temporary bridges. In dry years it's a simple matter of hopping across rocks to get over this glacial fed stream (but still cold if you fall!).
A good backpack is a necessity; make sure it fits your frame and is not too big and bulky. Layers also very important; we will start out when it is cold (mid 30's) and it will warm up to the 50's as the day progresses. Nights can dip below freezing in the mountains.
Icebergs - up close and personal
Icebergs - up close and personal
Originally uploaded by MinerShop
Even in July it can get pretty cold. This photo was taken from our boat as we navigated a field of ice just outside Narsaq harbor. In recent years the ice seems to have increased - probably another sign of climate change and the rapid decline of the glaciers?