Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Why go to Greenland for Fluorescent Minerals?


Franklin New Jersey, USA – Most fluorescent collectors started out collecting Franklin minerals. They are among the brightest, most varied, and most sought after fluorescent minerals known to the hobby. One can only imagine what it was like 50 years ago to actually be able to search the active mine dumps and come home with a piece of rare Esperite, or even dream of finding a piece with a little margarosonite. Today, collectors must be content with exploring endless piles of bright red fluorescent calcite and bright green willemite – many worn from endless handling by decades of determined collectors.

Ilimaussaq Complex, South Greenland - In the past seven years a new locality has come to light (pun intended). The Ilimaussaq complex in Southern Greenland has been a famous center for geological exploration for hundreds of years. As early as 1806 mineralogists were exploring the unique geology of the complex; since then over two hundred minerals have been identified within the intrusion. Many are only known from a few areas in the world, and at least ten are unique to Ilimaussaq. The complex is also the type locale for dozens of species. But perhaps the most amazing fact (to a fluorescent collector) is that until 2000, Greenland’s only real claim to fame in the “glowhound” world was Tugtupite!

Today there are over 15 different fluorescent minerals identified, and scores waiting to be identified. The brightness of these pieces, along with many beautiful multi-color combinations, rivals those from Franklin. Many pieces exhibit dramatic phosphorescence or a remarkable tenebrescense (color change) found in few other minerals. No literature exists describing the fluorescence of the various minerals within the complex; few people have even brought a UV light to the area! Yet these minerals simply lie there – waiting for the venturous collector to shine a light on them and find the hobby’s next rarity! Fluorescent collecting in Greenland must be akin to collecting in Franklin in the old days; exciting, productive, and simply fascinating.

But – Greenland isn’t just a matter of hopping on I-95 and driving a couple of hours. Greenland is located just north of the location where the Titanic sank. Primarily an island covered in ice (the world’s largest island – even if it is mostly ice), the coastline actually has strips of green in the summer months (Erik the Red named it Greenland after he was booted out of Iceland – the ultimate deception people say, just to make others want to move with him!). Southern Greenland is “warmed” by the Gulf Stream and in the short summer months (June to September) averages in the 50’s to 60’s. But even during these “warm spells” one is amazed at the majestic icebergs floating in all the harbors and fjords, the glaciers, and the lingering snow covering that elusive piece of tugtupite.

Greenland was very much a part of Denmark until 1979 when a “Home Rule” Government was established, insuring that the culture and Greenland way of life would not be lost. Denmark still plays a major role in Greenland’s government, but the Greenlandic people control their destiny. They are a proud, self-sufficient people. Living off the land, they are great hunters and fisherman, and very proud of their natural resources. Greenland is one of the few undeveloped natural wonders left on earth one can visit and still experience nature’s beauty and solitude at her finest – without a single worry about terrorism, violence, or crime.

Getting to Greenland can be interesting. In 2003 Air Iceland opened a route to Southern Greenland making things a little easier – they fly twice a week (weather permitting) to Narsarsuaq (the only major airport in South Greenland). The only other way to get there is to fly all the way to Copenhagen (Denmark) and then fly back to Greenland (not a lot of fun), or to fly into an airport way up north and take "dgo sleds" down south (not entirely accurate, but might as well be). If the Greenland weather interferes flights might be diverted to Stromfjord Airbase in northern Greenland (or just sit in Reykjavik) to wait until it clears up. This is the first lesson in travel to Greenland – the weather rules. Thankfully, the summer months are usually quite cooperative.

Once in country the adventure begins. There are no roads connecting the cities (there really aren’t any cities either). The larger settlements have roads in town, mostly so people can drive down to their boats – the main mode of travel. Flying into Narsarsuaq (a bustling airport town of 200 people) one can travel by ferry or private boat to Narsaq; home for the next week while exploring the Ilimaussaq Complex. After this trip, one has an appreciation for the passengers on the Titanic as they traversed the ice filled waters of the North Atlantic.

Narsaq is a small village located about 16km outside the Ilimaussaq Complex. The people are used to geologists traveling there from all over the world. Several excellent guesthouses are available – one even has a restaurant! All have cooking facilities and you can cook up your own meals. There are two grocery stores in town stocked with the best shrimp, salmon, trout, lamb, whale, and seal around – all within easy walking distance. The locals speak Danish and Greenlandic and have a (reluctant) grasp of English. But most of all, they are friendly and quick to help in anyway they can.

Travel to/from the various areas within the Ilimaussaq complex is by boat or 4-wheel drive truck. An old road leads to the famous Kvanefjeld area (Tugtupite mines) and the Tasaq slopes. Other parts of the complex are accessible only by boat. Many of the locals will ferry people to various touristy type areas in the summer months for a reasonable fee.

The area is a large sprawling complex spanning several fjords and mountains. A road (or boat) only gets you to the base of the collecting areas. One must be prepared to hike up old river beds, climb slopes, and even do some relatively rugged climbing to get to some of the more productive areas. The maximum elevation is around 700 meters and usually easy to traverse. There are two major impediments to climbing: 1 - Rocks are everywhere! 2 - Everything glows! – it simply takes too long to get to the top because the climbers get lost collecting on the way up!

No comments: